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Forum Index > Kawasaki BF750i/650i > Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force Sign up or Logon

Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force

by nyroc, 2007-11-16




I installed the Dalton DK 750 E clutch kit in my 08 BF750 to improve my low end throttle response while using 26" tires. This Kit is recommended for 25" to 27" tires, but with the addition of a different spring, the kit works with 28" tires. Or you can get the DK 750 EBT kit which covers 28" tires. Both of these Kits are for the 08 and newer BF, and do not fit the 05 to 07 BF. Also, the kit does not come with a secondary spring since it is not needed on the 08 BF.

The kit comes with Dalton's Patented quick adjust Cam Arms (weights) and a Blue and an Orange/Blue primary spring. The idea behind these quick adjust arms is they have removeable set screws that add mass to the weights to tailor the weight to your needs. They have a mass rivet which you can install or leave out. If you install the mass rivet, you can remove it but you have to purchase new rivets if you want to put them back in. The instructions tell you which spring to use, whether to install the rivets, and how many adjuster screws you should start with.

Here is what you get:



Installation

The instructions that come with the Kit are really all you need. But, just to familiarize yourself with the process I will summarize what I did to install the kit here:

1. Read the Dalton Instructions and choose your spring, and your weight adjustment settings based on your altitude and tire size. Install the dalton weight rivet if the dalton instructions indicate that you need it. I chose my settings based on 26" tires, and I used a vice to smash the mass rivents into the weights. I installed one setscrew into each weight.
2. Remove the front pulley (see the tech tips for details). An impact wrench makes this easier, and torque sticks make reinstallation even better.
3. Remove the cover plate. Mark it so it goes back on in the same position, and use diagonal loosening technique.
4. Remove stock Spring.
5. Loosen the 10mm weight retention nuts and remove the stock weights.
6. Install the Dalton weights and tighten the retention nuts to 61 in-lb (close to 5 ft-lb).
7. Install the Dalton Spring.
8. Install the cover plate and torque to 115 in-lb (close to 10 ft-lb).
9. Reinstall pulley (see tech tips).

This really is a simple install, not really hard at all. It is also fairly simple to change the spring near the trail if you bring sufficient tools in your truck. It is even easier to remove and install set screws in the Dalton adjustable weights.

Ride Results
I got a much snappier takeoff with the Dalton Clutch Kit. Takeoff is a little more abrupt, but I can still rock crawl. The added power is a plus for me. It is not a whole lot of added power, but is just one of the things you need to do to fine tune your machine to make it run it's best, and the Dalton Kit has the adjustability to really change the clutching in case you are more serious about modding your machine.




1 2
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-21 22:08:06

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


Installed Dalton orange/blue primary (stock secondary) on my 08 BF 750 when fixing a broken starter gear. . Full Dalton kit is pricey & dont think I need all the adjustability of the full meal deal. Have my belt at about 18mm, creeps a bit at idle in gear but doesnt squeal. Only been for one short run. Engagement is crisp. I had the Dalton blue in my 02 Prairie and loved it & may switch to the blue if I find the orange/blue stall not so trail worthy when I get a chance to really test it. Just looking for better belt grip, especially when bogging & towing when going slow in low.

While I was at it, I also did a simple mod same as on my Prairie back when KOD was into serious clutch machining. The movable sheave on the Prairie had over 3"16 inch slack before it engaged the belt and the engagement jerk was aggravating & more so with the blue spring. My 08 BF had over 1/4" of slack, & altho stock spring engaged easy & felt almost like it shifted up a gear just after it started to move, I expected new spring would give me the jerk again. Instead of multiple washers, this time I took my calipers to hardware store and measured about 4 fistfulls of 5/16" nuts to get 8 with identical thickness & put them on the primary cover bolts between the cover and the moveable sheave. Have to drill the threads out of two of them to go over the cover locating pins, but an easy mod. Just a pinch of slack between belt & sheave now. Still allows same amount of movement on the sheave but will push the belt higher up on the sheave as a bonus. I has a good 1/2" on outer edge of the sheave that was still shiny new and the belt had never touched.

Don't know why there is so much slack built into those primaries. But an easy mod. picture attached

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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
Brute Man Kelley
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 08:52:29

Posts: 1734
SALISBURY, North Carolina , USA


The heavier weights make engagement quicker for better belt grip and acceleration. This works good for mudders and trail riders who don't care about top speed. If you have a high HP motor this is great from start to finish. Done a lot of testing on this with KOD couple years ago and recently on my high hp motor at the drag strip.

WeeWilly The heavier weights will take a lot of the stall out of the O/B spring.

Nyroc Why will this kit not work on 05/07 models?

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BMK PERFORMANCE 785 Drag/ Trail Machine
MUZZY DEALER)
MN750BRUTE
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 09:19:28

Posts: 252
Royalton,MN, Minnesota , USA


Kawi beefed up the bushing area on the fly-weights for 2008. Check out nyroc's pics and you'll see that they are much wider than previous years. I'm sure the springs are the same.
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2008 Kawi BF750EFI, 2500LB Warn, Kawi team green,vforcejohn Stage3 primary clutch mod,KEBC bearing and fork removed,EPI maroon spring,EHS Mud lid,hand warmers,26"Carlisle ACT Radial tires------2006 Arctic Cat 500TRV, 26" Carlisle ACT radial tires,2up seat and optional rear rack, 2500LB Warn, 60" snow plow,hand&thumb warmers
nyroc
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 13:54:34

Posts: 3585
Advance, North Carolina , USA



Weewilly, I am going to do that mod. Thanks for the photo. Do the alignment dowells still engage sufficiently?
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08 Atlas Brute Force - snorkled (3" inlet), Works shocks, Gibson steering stabilizer
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 14:56:47

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


Nyroc, i am going to see if I can get longer dowels now that somewhere I found their dimensions. I think was 6.1 mm ID X 6.2 or maybe more OD, hafta find it again. the dowels still stick out about 1/4" on either side of the nuts, which is probably good enough. I think they just provide initial position, not sure they take up much of the centrifugal forces compared to the bolts. Hint when you drill out the two nuts, it is good if the pins are a hard fit thru the nuts, it will help the pins to stay centered in the nuts when you ease the cover into place. Center the nuts so equal lengths of pin stick out either side & then put pins w/nut into the locating hole. I had the nuts fitting tight, went brain dead & filed them slightly so they slid freely over the pins & then had a devils time keeping the nuts centered in place on the pins when I put cover back on. Not sure if the pins did not slip one way or the other in the end.

You say the other spring with the kit is the Dalton blue. Looks darker in your pic & on his website than his blue one he originally made for the 700 V force and what I put in my old Prairie. My buddy & I really liked it in our 02 Prairies but then anything that improved those first clutches was appreciated. Now I am beginning to understand how spring specs might affect performance, I suspect I might end up going to the blue. Will have less stall, but if I can live with the orange/blue, its already in there and only by trying it will I know

Brute Man - just trying to see if just a spring will give me what I want. Full Dalton kit is pricey, altho I am sure it would open up a new world of performance. Will switch to the blue spring if stall is to aggravating. Really like Dales products. He knows clutches. Thought i was done wrenching clutches when I sold my Prairie, then they had to go put EFI, along with IRS on the 750's & our dollar went to par with the $US in 2007 so I took a quick 22 hour drive to Montana & back with a pretty blue beast in the back. Then Yamaha comes out with power steering, damn!

On another note, does anyone have any idea when, or even if, K&N will have an air filter to fit the EFI Kawi's?. New filter cage & top are different. Couldnt find one from any supplier so went to K&N site & they dont list one beyond 07. Hate oiling foam ones, K&N spray oil is soo much easier.

Its a beauty sunny day. Think I should load up & go for a spin at nearby winter trail area!

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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
BNWELD
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 15:26:49

Posts: 1661
MINOT, Maine , USA


WEE WILLY,spacing the face plate out,did it give you any more top speed?it should,how much further up the sheave is the belt riding?
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2008 BF 750,HOLESHOT ATR'S, ROX RISERS BAR KIT,POWERMAD HANDGUARDS,AND END BRACES,PEN-LOCK,BILLET SHIFT KNOB,2R-RACING TIP,ROYAL PURPLE OILS,PROFILL PREFILTER,WIFES 05 SUZUKI OZARK,FEW MODS.DAUGHTER'S 05 Z-250 BIG GUN FULL EXHAUST,CUSTOM GROUND WEB CAM,CARB REWORK.
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 16:53:51

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


Didnt space the cover out, it cant go further out . Spaces the movable sheave further in. It still allows full range of movement of the sheave and it did improve top speed on my old Prairie since it forces the belt further up on the primary sheaves.You could see where the belt went higher on my Prairie. But you still need to leave a bit of slack between the sheave and the belt at rest, or it may start grabbing at idle depending on which primary spring you have. Springs with low initial rate around 0 like stock & pink EPI might allow this, think higher stall springs wouldnt. Dont know yet on my 08 how much effect it has. But I do know I have gained 1/4" of sheave engagement with the belt and it will ride higher at high RPM & consequently gain some top speed, not that I need more speed! Engagement will be smoother, no matter what spring. since the sheave wont slap into the belt so hard because the slack is removed.
Got ready to go for a ride 1/2 hr ago & warmed it up good before moving it. Still paranoid after having replaced starter/flywheel gear with broken teeth after cold stalling & restart problems. Anyway it wont shift worth crap, snaps abruptly from reverse to forward, skipping neutral & some rubber smell. Didnt do this last week on my brief run after putting it back together, but it was a lot colder then & I hadnt warmed it up as long. Got the belt too tight, around 18 mm stretch and thats probably with more than 13lbs push on the belt. My Prairie ran good that tight, but didnt creep in gear at idle like this does & still shifted oK.

So... apart again. I already have an extra .3mm shim, shoulda put it in too. Will now & it should be OK. Got broomstick, primary puller bolt, homemade secondary spring compressor, torque wrenches etc. & could do it in my sleep. But I do hate getting those little pins in the secondary back in place. Grease loves me..everywhere but where it belongs. Will clean out new moly from a week ago & use the synthetic I had but forgot about. . Ce la vie!

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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
Brute Man Kelley
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 18:06:30

Posts: 1734
SALISBURY, North Carolina , USA


Wee Willy
You could save a lot of $$$ by just going maroon primary & if you really needed to go with almond secondary. Less than $50 for both. Unless you really want big time performance like racing the clock save your money on a kit. I drag race in a series and I tune my clutch with no kits.

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BMK PERFORMANCE 785 Drag/ Trail Machine
MUZZY DEALER)
MN750BRUTE
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-22 19:03:49

Posts: 252
Royalton,MN, Minnesota , USA


That's good advice BMK I like buying individual parts too.
The manufactures of the clutch kits do lots of testing to make their kits as versitile as possible. There's just to many variables like tire size & weight, weight of the rider,the terrain that you ride in,elevation, just to name a few.

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2008 Kawi BF750EFI, 2500LB Warn, Kawi team green,vforcejohn Stage3 primary clutch mod,KEBC bearing and fork removed,EPI maroon spring,EHS Mud lid,hand warmers,26"Carlisle ACT Radial tires------2006 Arctic Cat 500TRV, 26" Carlisle ACT radial tires,2up seat and optional rear rack, 2500LB Warn, 60" snow plow,hand&thumb warmers
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-23 02:10:34

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


Couldnt go test ride so tore clutches down. Belt didnt seem to measure all that tight. But belt was riding about 1/16" above top of secondary pulley. That used to be what you wanted. Slapped my extra .3 shim in anyway (those %^#**'n pins) which would only make it .2 less than what I started with, and belt now rides even with the top of pulley. Thought my primary nut mod was maybe too much & wanted to get skinnier nuts or use washers to back it off a bit, but stores closed , so put it back together enuf to take for a quick test drive on our street & will leave as is until I can reallly put it thru the paces. I think these new clutches can run good with belt in mid range of deflection. Ran OK before, even plowing, and seemed to measure about at maximum. Measuring deflection is trickier than it reads and you definitely have to be down at eye level to be even close to accurate. It now has barely perceptible creep in gear on slight incline down, pretty much sits still on level. Shifts a slight bit clunky, but did before too. No slop in gear engagement, but vast improvement from this afternoon when it didnt want to shift at all & then went direct from reverse to high. Belt engagement is instantaneous, touch the throttle & its away. Have to see if this works for slow, hard slogging, or maybe it will stall at such low revs. Think the orange/blue may just work out. Now if I could just remember if I put the belt back on in the same direction it came off. Couldn't remember before either until I looked at my picture of my clutch.

One thing I should mention. If you want to try the nut (or washers) between the primary cover and sheave, You HAVE TO figure out how much slack you have BEFORE you pull the primary clutch off. If you pull it, the clutch bolt lets the sheaves move quite far apart when it is backed off & there is a lot of slack between movable sheave & belt when you have it on the bench. So cram your head directly above the pulley before removing it, push down on the belt so it is tight on the shaft and tight against the inner sheave and see how much slack you do have. You can also push in on the cover till it fetches up against the belt and attempt to measure how much travel it has compared to the head of the main shaft bolt, but you need four hands to do it.

PS, Bruteman - several people suggested the epi maroon, but I hafta support Canadian technology. Dalton is a Maritimer, used to be one my own self!


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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
vtprairie
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-23 08:34:36
Posts: 117
Swanton, Vermont , USA

I think the Dalton Blue or Blue/white is about equal to an EPI Maroon. You will have to double check
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05 Brute 750 Full Muzzys Maroon spring Vforcejohn Stage3 27 XTR's ITP Type 7's Dyna Web150i cams DratFab Lowering Kit
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2009-02-24 02:07:27

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


We got about 4" of power snow today so plowed four driveways tonite. Got side plates on the end of my 60" plow so I can push more. Quad worked great. Maybe not a mudbog test, but I did push into old hard snowbanks both fast & slow & from dead stop, No hesitation just powered till it had no more traction. Shifts crisp, maybe better than stock except sometimes rattles a bit trying to go back thru high from low. Think I have a setup. Dont notice any stall problems with the orange/blue spring. Not sure if my primary nut mod made a difference with that, but engagement is smooth & strong. Pulls hard from a dead stop up against heavy load on the plow, so should be good in slow bog work. Will be interesting to see how much higher up the primary the belt has travelled after a few long WOT runs. Sometime after my truck gets back from the body hospital.
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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
15brute
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-22 23:29:12
Posts: 15
Narrows, Virginia , USA

There seems to be quite a few choices when it comes to selecting a clutch kit for the new Brutes. I am looking for a clutch for my 09 Brute 750. I am running 27 inch mudlites on 14 inch rims and I am looking for something basic to help prolong belt life and give me a bit of performance upgrade. Not really looking to get something with alot of adjustability cause frankly I dont have a clue anyways. Anyone have any suggestions of what will work best for me??
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09 750 Brute Force
27 Mudlites
14 ITP SS212
EPI Maroon primary, Almond secondary
10k HID's
Blue LED park lights
Temp Gauge
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-23 03:40:32

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


I would suggest either leaving it as is with stock springs, or either the Dalton blue or EPI maroon primary spring. Stock secondary is much stronger than in the past and will work well with your 27" tires, unless you really get into power mods. Primary spring is much easier to switch than secondary, but you need to use a torque wrench to put it back on.
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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
15brute
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-23 05:31:14
Posts: 15
Narrows, Virginia , USA

I've been told that leaving the stock springs in will be very hard on the belt. My previous atv was a brute force 650 and it had 14in wheels and 27in mudlites and I wore out a belt at 650 miles running the stock springs. Currently I get a bit of whine from my belt if I stop and leave it in gear for a minute or so. Could this just be a dirty belt or is it from running the oversized tires on stock springs?
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09 750 Brute Force
27 Mudlites
14 ITP SS212
EPI Maroon primary, Almond secondary
10k HID's
Blue LED park lights
Temp Gauge
Bootlegger
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-23 11:02:15
Posts: 435
Crossville, Tennessee , USA

put you an Maroon Primary and Almond secondary from EPI and you will be set.
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2008 Suzuki King Quad 750
Tuned by Bitmore Performance
Randy Miller Racing...
Sponsored by: X Brand,GearUpHelmets.com,O'Neal,Muddylens.com,Bitmore Performance,MudTech, Engine Ice,Yoshimura,Amsoil,Interco Tire,and Mud-Throwers.com
Muddylens.com
Randy Miller Racing
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-23 18:05:03

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


go to daltonindustries.com & read his stuff on Kawi clutches. I have 27" Swamplites & Dalton orange/blue primary with stock secondary. Orange blue has quite a bit of stall, but I like it. Daltons blue spring would be less aggressive. & lots of Kawi owners like the EPI maroon. Your belt may be a bit tight which will cause a squeal if left idling in gear. On the old Prairies, that was a good setup, but you learned to put it in neutral when idling. 08 clutches dont seem to like/or need a belt tighter than the specs. Keeping belt adjusted properly, especially not too loose, is critical to belt life and engagement. Moreso when you put on bigger tires. Gets even moreso when you go bigger than 27" tires and then you will probably need a stronger secondary & primary spring. Just
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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
15brute
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-23 21:22:35
Posts: 15
Narrows, Virginia , USA

So if the belt squeels just a bit at idle while in gear this means its just a bit tight? And this is good? I have heard that when setting up the belt that you want the cooling ribs on the belt slightly above the edge of the secondary pulley. If this is correct and all this checks out, can I get away with only swapping out the primary with the maroon one or should I go ahead and buy both the maroon and the almond secondary and replace them as a pair? And if the belt is tighter than it should be, I have to go into the secondary and add or remove shims to adjust the belt, correct? I really appreciate all the info!
----------------
09 750 Brute Force
27 Mudlites
14 ITP SS212
EPI Maroon primary, Almond secondary
10k HID's
Blue LED park lights
Temp Gauge
Wee Willy
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-23 23:23:24

Posts: 737
Sherwood Park, Alberta , Canada


If the belt is too tight (deflection less than 22mm (.87"), you will have to adjust (add or change combination of ) shim to get it looser. You may be able, in that case to add a 3mm shim. Then you would have to take the secondary apart, so go ahead & add the almond, the springs are not expensive. On my 02 Prairie, the belt was slightly above the secondary, but the deflection was about 18 mm because it was the worst kawi clutch & the belt was narrower than later ones. On my 08 750 I tried it that tight and had to re-shim it looser to within spec. range because it wouldnt shift right and crept ahead at idle. Belt now just at top of secondary & works fine.
You shouldnt let it idle in gear, its hard on the belt, especially if it starts to squeal and can glaze the belt making it easier to slip.

Tips. Dont disengage the wire connectors from KEBC etc on top of the convertor cover, their wiring is long enuf to allow you to move the cover up unto the seat out of the way when the flexible wire holder is opened up. Use the broomhandle trick, or one of the other holders (search). on the primary.
You can put in both springs but to take the secondary clutch apart you need a spring compressor, but it is easy to make (see tech tips or search primary springs). It is just a pain to disassemble and reassemble. & do not over torque the primary clutch bolt. Use sandpaper or something to scuff the sides of the belt to remove glaze and do the same to the clutch sheaves surfaces.

If the belt is tighter, or looser than it should be, you have to shim. Get it as close to the low end of the spec (22mm) as possible. It may require a different combo of the available shims to get it there, but the shims are cheap and having several, or all of the sizes, makes it easy to combine to get the right deflection, & you will have to do it again as the belt wears and stretches. Dont despair, if you keep the deflection tight, you may have to only do it twice before the belt is worn out. If it is too loose, you will have to do it more times. Somebody on the forum washes and drys his belt.

& get a manual or use the one in tech tips,

Have fun


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2008 750 Kawi BF, 27" Swamplites, Dalton orange/blue, snorkled convertor exhaust, Uni filter, Pro Fill, Penlock, PowerMadd, NGK plug wires, custom 1/4" HDPE full skid, custom front rack, Poly swaybar bushings, OMI steering bushing, foamed gas tank guard, innertube inner fenders, front Warn/rear Champion 2500 lb. winches, backup light, large rear cargo box, 5' Powerblade plow.
15brute
Subject: Dalton Clutch Kit DK 750 E for 08 Brute Force2010-01-24 01:17:18
Posts: 15
Narrows, Virginia , USA

A couple more questions I think i got it. As fars as the shims go, do I get these from EPI when I order the springs or do I have to source these somewhere else? As far as measuring the belt to see if its in spec, do you have a trick for this or is that something covered in a repair manual. Last, as far as a manual goes, do you mean one of the kawasaki repair manuals?
----------------
09 750 Brute Force
27 Mudlites
14 ITP SS212
EPI Maroon primary, Almond secondary
10k HID's
Blue LED park lights
Temp Gauge
1 2
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