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Clutch kit install - EPI - 700/750by Dav Ash, 2006-04-20Here is a link to my photo page and some more info on the EPI clutch kit install. My photo page on the EPI install with tips This is a link to the original post I did on my install. It may have some useful information in it about the install. EPI install post Read the directions that came with the clutch kit a couple of times. This will be a lot of help later. Here is a list of tools that the EPI instructions give! Metric socket set Torque wrench- I used two 1/2 drive foot pound and 1/4 drive inch pound. Spring tool or needle noise pliers- I used needle noise pliers Clutch compression tool or shop press(EPI part # cct500) I made my own compression tool! From the suggestions of other peoples ideals! Thanks! 1/2 inch impact gun Suzuki Oil- I replaced mine with Amsoil Punch or spanner wrench- I used a punch with the end ground to a little bit of an angle! Flat tip screwdriver Clutch shoe remover-( Suzuki part # 0990-33540) I did not have this! I made the rotor holder to hold the clutches for correct torquing! Sliding shaft (Suzuki part # 09930-30104) I did not have this! I used a large two jaw puller set. I also would go ahead and pick up a new oil filter and filter wrench from Suzuki ( if you don't have a filter wrench already) "Caution: If you use a spring compressor, do not try to compress the spring cap. It is bottomed out and you only want to snug the compression tool onto the cap. The tool is only for controlling the spring and keeping it in place while you loosen the nut. When you re install the spring and the cap, you only want to tighten it down until the spring / cap bottoms out on the stop." Here is a picture of the compression tool I made.  Here are some better measurements on the home made tools! The compression tool = 1/4 flat steel 12 inches long ( I had to double mine but I only used 1 1/2 inch wide). If you use 2 inch wide it might not bend with only one piece! 1/2 threaded rod= 1 piece 12 inches long and two pieces 6 inches long 6) 1/2 inch grade 5 large flat washers 11) 1/2 inch grade 5 nuts The three holes on the top piece of the clamp! Center the middle hole at 6 inches! Space the outer holes 1 1/2 inch on center from the middle hole! The center of the outer holes should be three inches apart! So if you use a 12 inch piece of steel your 1/2 inch holes should be 4 1/2 inches in from each end and the center should be at six inches from each end! Just be sure the outer holes are three inches on center apart! The rotor holder: I used two pieces of 1/4 x 1 inch aluminum ( it was already in my shop ). Heres another photo! Showing both clutches off the bike! 3) 1/4 inch x 1 1/2 long grade 5 bolts 3) 1/4 grade 5 nuts one piece was 18 inches long one piece was 9 inches long Long piece= drill one 1/4 inch hole 1/2 inch in from end and the other hole 8 1/2 inches in from the same end with the first hole! Short piece: drill one hole 1/4 inch in from the ends. Or you can do what I did and clamp them together and drill them at the same time! The measuring does not have to right of with this tool! Leave the center bolt finger tight so the tool can be opened or close to fit! I would recommend that you do the measuring for yourself before making your tools! Here is the spanner tool (rotor holder) that I made to hold the clutches for removal and to torque them to spec.(I used some one inch by 1/4 inch thick aluminum flat bar and some grade eight nuts and bolts to make the tool). Others have not used this kind of tool. You can also use a large strap wrench or you can also use 1/2 inch dia rope with a knot tied in the end of it. Let the rope bind the first pulley between the belt and the pulley. On the second pulley, wrap the rope around the pulley and tie the loose end to the frame. Do this in the direction that will hold the clutch from turning.  First things first. Get a copy or download the service manual. It will come in handy to this and any other service you do on your King. Drain the oil from the motor and remove the oil filter and let it drain. You will be accessing the wet clutches with the EPI kit and it shares the oil with the motor. FYI: The High Lifter kits are made by EPI and include the wet clutch gasket. The First HL kit is the same as the over-sized tire kit and the HL extreme kit is for tire sizes over 27 inches or really heavy tires. Remove the inner fender, floor board and footrest bars to gain access to the drive belt cover. Then remover the (10) bolts from around the black cover. Make sure you remove the rubber gasket with the cover. Set it aside and keep it clean. You can also refer to the clutch cleaning tip for reference to taking the clutch area apart.Cleaning tip  Remove the cap. Then remove the three armed guard in the right of the photo that is over the front pulley. Remove the bolts in the center of the clutches. I made and used a tool for doing this, other have used a large strap wrench. You can also use 1/2 inch dia rope with a knot tied in the end of it. Let the rope bind the first pulley between the belt and the pulley. On the second pulley, wrap the rope around the pulley and tie the loose end to the frame. Do this in the direction that will hold the clutch from turning. Use the tool in the holes I have indicated in the photo below.  Remove the clutches from the bike and place on a clean work surface. This is what it will look like with the clutches removed. Loosen the intake and exhaust lines for the tranny as seen in the sides of the picture.  Now remove the rear plate to the front clutch and set it to the side, making sure that everything stays clean and dry as you work. Be careful to remember were the bolts come from on the back of the black cover! Some of them are longer (two of them)! I marked the case with a permanent marker to be sure they went back in the correct space! Now remove the back section of the black clutch housing. You have now opened the area with the wet clutches. As shown in the photo below. You will have some oil come out at this point, so be ready to catch it with a pan or something. I was able to save my gasket by carefully removing the cover and making sure the gasket did not come away from the bike. It seemed to stay on the motor better so I let it. You may want to have a new gasket on hand just in case you need it. My bike had very few miles on it and I was tired of waiting on the gasket. As shown in the picture below, you have now accessed the wet clutch area.  Use the spanner tool (rotor holder) to hold the wet clutch and remove the nut. It is a left hand thread nut. Keep this in mind since not all torque wrench's will torque correctly in reverse. I used a large two jawed puller to remove the wet clutch from the bike. Make sure you do not bind the puller against the sides of the case. Here is the wet clutch off the bike! This is the back side that you have to remove the e-clips from to change the internal springs! I used a couple of clamps to hold the wet clutch together to remove and replace the e-clips! Remember how the steel plates came off! They need to be put back in the same order! I used a good pair of needle noise pliers and a straight pick tool when replacing the springs. This was the hardest part of the install for me but it just took some time and patience.  Here is the inside of the wet clutch! With the new EPI springs installed! Take your time and be careful replacing the springs. It will take a good bit of patience and a little hand strength to do this part of the install. After you have replaced the springs, put the steel plates back on in the same order they came off. Use the clamps to compress the clutch and replace the e-clips. Make sure you keep everything as clean as possible during the entire installation of the clutch kit. Replace the wet clutch back on the bike.  When replacing the main spring. Tighten the spring compressor on the cap and just turn the nut a little after it makes contact with the cap. It will be bottomed out at this point. Use a punch with the tip ground at a slight angle and a hammer to loosen the spanner nut. Make sure the nut is marked before you loosen it. A few taps is all it will take to loosen the nut. Spin the nut lose and then carefully loosen the compression tool. Remove stock spring and replace with the new EPI spring. You will need to turn the new spring COUNTER CLOCK WISE in order to line up the flats on the shaft with the flats on the cap. Using the spring compressor to hold the pressure of the spring while you rotate the cap and tighten it into place. Tighten the compressor until the cap bottoms out and then spin the nut all the way down. Use the punch and hammer to turn the nut to align the marks on the shaft with the marks on the nut. Remover the compression too. This one is the belt reinstalled in the secondary clutch! As to the Suzuki service manual, I used a small dead blow hammer to set the belt about 1/2 inch under the lip of the clutch all the way around! This made it very easy to reinstall the two clutches with the belt on them! I had quite a bit of slack until I rotated the clutches together on the bike! You can also use two of the black clutch cover bolts and spread the clutch by putting the bolts in the threaded holes near the center bolt on the face of the clutch. You want to make sure you get the belt down in the faces of the clutch. This will help you to install the front clutch and have enough slack in the belt so you are not torquing the front clutch bolt on the belt. You want to make sure you do not have the belt between the front clutches when you are torquing the bolt. This will cause the bolt to back out and will damage the clutch cover. I used blue lock-tite on the center bolts and torqued them both to 79.5 foot pounds.  The weights were the easiest part of the install for me! I used a small dead blow (rubber hammer) and two socket! A 17mm and a 24 mm socket! Place the 17 inside the factory roller /weight while centered over the 24mm socket and carefully drive the old weight out! Place the weight sleeve on a flat surface and use the hammer and 17 mm socket the drive in the new weight! Be careful to keep everything lined up straight! Center the roller in the plastic jackets. Here is a photo of the front clutch with the cover removed showing the rollers. Do not use brake cleaner on the rollers and the plastic covers. I suggest warn soapy water. When you are re-installing the front clutch make sure to hold the clutch together to make sure the weights don't move.  Here is one just before the clutches are to be put back on! The wet clutch has a one way bearing. This only allows the shaft to turn in one direction. Be sure it is turned the correct way! Mine was labeled outside! I gave the shaft a little twist toward the rear and it slid over the one way bearing with no problem! Without the twist I was having a had time getting the front shaft to slide into place! The nut on the one way bearing is a left hand thread nut and needs to be torqued to 108.5 foot pounds. FYI: Most torque wrenches will not torque correctly in reverse. You do not want to torque against the one way bearing. Use the spanner wrench that is described above. The front of the bike is to the right in these pictures!  Now re-install the back of the clutch case. Making sure the wet clutch gasket is in place and correctly aligned. This is the shaft I had to turn in order to slide it over the wet clutches one way bearing. Take note of the location of the bolts that you removed. Some of them were longer than the others and need to be put back in the correct place. Torque the bolts to 7.2 foot pounds. I used blue Lock-tite on these bolts. Now re-connect the front and rear vent lines for the tranny.  The next step was to put the clutches back on the bike! Here is the rear clutch with the slack in the belt from setting it in the rear clutch!  Here is the front clutch on as well! Remember to pinch the cover down on the front clutch to keep the weights in place! this will help when putting the cover back on. Or at least it was in the instruction to do it this way and I did not run into any problems! Replace and torque both center bolts to 79.5 foot pounds as the Service manual. The EPI directions call for 83 foot pounds but I suggest you do as Suzuki tells you in the manual. I also used blue lock-tite on the two main bolts. Use the home-made spanner wrench or you preferred method of holding the clutches to tighten them.  Now replace the cover over the front clutch. I used blue lock tite on these three bolts also. Then replace the black rubber cap over the bearing on the front clutch cover. Now spin the clutches to take the slack out of the belt and make sure every thing is moving like it should. Make sure you have torqued every bolt to spec.  Make sure you get the rubber gasket seated properly and replace the black outer cover to the clutches. Torque the cover bolts to 6.5 foot pounds. Replace the footrest. Torque bolts to 19 foot pounds for the M8 bolts and 40 pounds for the M10 bolts. Replace the floor board. Replace the inner fender. You should clean the clutch area as part of routine maintenance. When you change your oil would be a good time or when ever you get dirty water or mud in the clutches. See the clutch cleaning tech tip. You should read all directions carefully and refer to the service manual for yourself, before doing anything to your quad.  Front page of the EPI directions.  Back page of the EPI directions.  Tip: Cracking the secondary nut loose is sometimes difficult. You should never use a plastic handle tool such as a screwdriver, as the plastic will transfer the force of the blow but will absorb the sharp crack needed to shock tight threads to move. You could end up making an ugly mess of your nut and not having any success. Likewise you should not use a cold chisel. These transmit shock alright but they are made to cut and they too will mark up the nut badly, and the shock goes to driving the hardened cutting edge through the softer material of the nut rather than turning it. Using too big a hammer again will reduce the shock needed to crack the nut free. Don't worry about compressing the cup when first starting to take the nut off. Pressure on the cup will not help loosed the nut. Use a pin punch if one is available, or a brass drift. If you use a steel rod then you seriously ought to wear eye protection. (I know a fellow who lost an eye in just this sort of operation in a logging camp shop, using a steel hammer and a steel drift) Since virtually nobody is going to have the special tool that fits this nut, you'll need to smack it loose with a hammer and a drift. Using a hammer no heavier than a standard carpenters claw hammer, set your drift/rod/pin punch squarely on the edge of one of the nut's drive slots and give the nut a sharp blow. A scant few of these should be needed to set it on it's way. Once it has made nearly a full turn you can apply pressure to the cup so that it and the spring don't go crazy when the nut comes off it's last thread, and now you can go to town with it.  |
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